At last, I'm in Antigua, my favorite place in Guatemala. Actually a small walkable town whose streets fit easily on a map, Antigua has twice been destroyed by devastating earthquakes since its' founding more than 300 years ago. The ruins of several churches are preserved as national monuments.
After spending so much time here over the past 28 years the town gives me a comfortable feeling of being home. I know the streets, the parks, and the people. Of course, each year brings changes that have altered the character of the place.
New, super cute stores, bars, restaurants and hotels constantly replace the homes of longtime residents and it's difficult to find the tipical small, family run comedores (eating places) that used to be so prevalent.
Strict rules govern exterior building modification, requiring adherance to the original colonial style while modern architecture is forbidden. Perhaps part of the charm is the volcano that looms over everything.
After arriving, I visited my friend Mario Castellanos, who runs an excellent Spanish language immersion school called Tecun Uman, and he invited me to a party at the school to introduce current students to tradional Guatemalan food.
I'm staying tonight at Banana Azul (blue banana), and last night was at the Black Cat. Both names are better than the earlier place I stayed, named La Sexta, which innocently means the sixth, but still has a whiff of wild times.
However, La Sexta was a lot more tranquil then the banana, whose manager is devoting ALL his energy to entertaining two young women guests, and has music turned up to a volume probably injurious to my ears, even through the closed door to my room. I intend to move to another hostel in the morning.
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